“Erdem wanted to create a look that communicated the dancers’ transitional experience during a show,” says makeup artist and NARS global artistry director Jane Richardson of designer Erdem Moralioglu’s vision for his fall show, where he took a 360-degree approach to a dancer’s wardrobe, from rehearsal dancewear to ornate stage costumes. “It’s a glimpse, if you will, of a look that is there one minute and then gone the next.”
In mood-boarding this season’s beauty look, the pair landed on Moira Shearer’s iconic graphic eyeliner and red lips in 1948’s The Red Shoes. “He was drawn to the expressive use of lines that ballerinas use to open up their eyes and show emotion, as well as the shade of red that we see in the movie,” explains Richardson. One thing that Moralioglu was adamant about in conceiving a fresh reimagining? “At no point was there to be an eye and a lip,” she says. “I think that this is what makes the look modern and wearable.”
To create the sharp graphic cat eyes punctuated by negative space, Richardson started a few millimeters in from where the outer eye ends, drew a line out towards the temple, and then down to the undereye. The length and thickness came down to each model’s individual eye shape and what would complement their features best. “If you forget to take note of the structure of the face, [the makeup] takes over,” says Richardson. After using concealer to tweak and perfect the lines, she then added a few individual eyelashes on the outer corners to open up their gaze without too much mascara. In settling on the right shade and texture for the red lips, she used NARS Precision Lip Liner in Porquerolles with Ravishing Red and Inappropriate Red lipstick layered on top. Then, diffusing the edges for a soft-focus finish, she added a layer of loose powder. “The makeup works to support the cinematic tension,” says Richardson. “It is transformative, moody, and utterly compelling in a powerful, irresistible way.” Dramatic eyeliner or a stamp of red lipstick as a means of escape? We’ll take it—always, but especially now.